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Aruba Kayaking Island paddling guide
Launch by launch

Where to kayak in Aruba Every stretch of this coastline that takes a boat, the ones that only look like they do, and what each launch asks of you.

Roughly half of Aruba's shoreline will take a kayak. The other half is the half that ends up in photographs, which is how visitors arrive with a paddling day pencilled in for the wrong side of the island.

This page works from the northwest tip to the southeast end, one launch area at a time. It includes the harbor, the industrial shoreline and the windward coast, because a guide that lists only the pleasant parts leaves you unable to tell the difference.

01 / Method

What actually decides a launch

Whether a piece of Aruban coast is worth putting a boat in comes down to four things, and only one of them is how the water looks from the beach.

  • Which way the wind pushes you. Along the sheltered side the trades mostly run parallel to the shore rather than out to sea, and that geometry is why this coast forgives beginners. Where the coastline turns, at the northwest corner and at the southeast end, the same wind starts pointing at open water. Those corners account for most of the trouble here, and the wind through the year and through the day is worth reading before you commit to either.
  • What else is using the water. Mooring fields, dredged channels, marked swimming areas, fishermen working lines, and boats moving fast with a blind spot the size of a kayak.
  • What is under you. Pale sand you can cross without thinking, turtle grass worth staying off, shallow reef that takes skin off a shin, and blue channels where the depth and the engines both live.
  • Whether you can get out where you got in. Shore type, somewhere to leave a car, and how far a boat has to be carried. A good deal of fine water here is fronted by rock, private ground or a fence.

What follows is that exercise already done, northwest to southeast.

02 / Orientation

The island, launch by launch

Eleven launch areas on the sheltered side, numbered from the northwest tip, plus three markers on the windward coast so the parts that take no boat still have names. The pale band is the sheltered water between shore and reef.

Launch map of Aruba showing eleven sheltered launch areas and three windward markers A simplified outline of Aruba oriented northwest to southeast. Along the sheltered south and west coast, eleven numbered launch areas run from Arashi at the northwest tip through Malmok, Palm Beach, Eagle Beach, Oranjestad harbor, Spanish Lagoon, Pos Chiquito, Mangel Halto, Savaneta and Rodgers Beach to Baby Beach at the southeast end. A pale band between the coast and a dashed offshore reef line marks the sheltered water. The north and east coast is marked as windward, with three lettered markers at Wariruri, Andicuri and Boca Grandi, and arrows showing trade winds arriving from the east and northeast. N offshore reef line TRADE WINDS, E TO NE WINDWARD COAST open ocean, no shelter, no landing. LEEWARD COAST every launch below is on this side. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 A B C 0 about 5 miles
  1. 1ArashiSand pocket at the tip. Windy early, clear water.
  2. 2Malmok and Boca CatalinaRock edges, snorkeling, mooring field.
  3. 3Palm BeachFlat sand launch under the high rise hotels.
  4. 4Eagle Beach and DruifWide sand, quieter engines, easy carry.
  5. 5Oranjestad waterfrontCruise berths and channel. Not a launch.
  6. 6Spanish LagoonInlet and mangrove. The stillest water here.
  7. 7Pos ChiquitoMangrove fringe and shallow flats.
  8. 8Mangel HaltoReef lagoon, mangrove tunnels, sand channel out.
  9. 9SavanetaFishing village, low cays, reef flats between.
  10. 10Rodgers Beach and San NicolasSmall sheltered crescent beside a working harbor.
  11. 11Baby BeachWide shallow lagoon with a gap in the arm.
  12. AWariruriNorth coast surf and limestone shelf.
  13. BAndicuriSand beach, standing shore break, no shelter.
  14. CBoca GrandiWind straight onshore. Kitesurfing water.
Drawn for this page. Schematic, not to scale, not for navigation. Coastline simplified, reef line and sheltered band indicative only. Marker positions show which stretch of coast is meant, not a launch point on the ground.
03 / Zones 1 to 2

The northwest tip: Arashi, Malmok and Boca Catalina

Bright, clear water over rock and coral rather than sand, deepening quickly a short way out. The snorkeling is the draw, and the small bays at Boca Catalina and Malmok collect boats for that reason. Catamarans and dive boats settle onto moorings as the morning goes on, so a launch that is quiet at dawn is busy later.

The complication is the corner. The coast turns north here, and the wind that has been pushing you along the shore starts pushing you toward open water instead. The tip is also the first ground the breeze reaches, so it works harder here than at the same hour in the southeast. Launch off the sand at Arashi, stay inside the mooring field, and treat the point below the lighthouse as the end of the paddling coast rather than a corner to round.

04 / Zones 3 to 4

The hotel shoreline: Palm Beach, Eagle Beach and Druif

The simplest launching on the island. Flat sand, no shore break worth the name, and in most cases you can walk a boat in from the hotel you are standing in. The bottom close in is pale sand and little else, so the paddling is movement rather than sightseeing, and the patch reef worth looking at sits further out with the traffic in between.

That traffic is the subject. Jet skis, parasail boats, tow toys and sailing school dinghies all work this water, and the buoyed swimming areas keep them apart from people. Paddle outside the markers, stay clear of the piers, and cross open water quickly rather than drifting across it.

Beginners still do well here, because the wind runs along the beach rather than off it. Getting it wrong means a long walk back along the sand rather than an emergency.

05 / Zone 5

The middle of the island: harbor, runway and port

Between the hotel shoreline and the mangroves is a stretch that is simply not paddling water, and naming it saves somebody a morning. The Oranjestad waterfront is a working harbor: cruise berths, tugs, ferries, a dredged channel and seawall instead of shore. The small private resort island sits just off it, the shoreline behind the airport runway is closed for obvious reasons, and Barcadera further south is a commercial port.

It is not hostile the way the windward coast is hostile. It is someone else's water, moving large hulls through narrow channels. Treat the middle of the island as the drive between two paddling coasts.

06 / Zones 6 to 9

The sheltered southeast: Spanish Lagoon to Savaneta

This is the stretch that makes Aruba worth bringing a paddle to, and it is four distinct pieces of water rather than one.

Spanish Lagoon

The island's only true inlet, a drowned valley reaching inland behind a narrow mouth, mangrove along both edges and silt and turtle grass underneath. No swell gets in and the wind arrives already broken up by the trees, which makes it the stillest water within reach of anybody. Flow through that mouth is noticeable when the water is moving, so it pays to go in against it and come out with it. Herons, egrets and waders work the roots, and the pale discs on the bottom in the shallows are upside down jellyfish, worth a long look and no touch at all.

Pos Chiquito

The fringe just south of the lagoon. Mangrove edge, shallow flats, roadside access, and a short paddle for anyone wanting shelter without a long day.

Mangel Halto

The one most paddlers are looking for. A shallow lagoon sits behind the reef with mangrove tunnels along its inner shore, wooden steps down into the water, and a sand channel cutting out to the drop off beyond. You can thread the tunnels, cross the flats reading the bottom as you go, and slide off the boat over coral shallow enough to see everything in it. It is also the water that guided paddling here is built around, run by Vale's Rambo Adventures, which publishes this guide.

Savaneta

South again past fishing boats and huts to a line of low cays with shallow reef flats between them. Working boats use these channels daily, so give them room and cross rather than loiter. The shoreline through here also collects sea glass, which has a field guide of its own and is left alone on this page.

Across all four: stay off the grass beds where a route allows, keep feet up over anything that is not sand, and remember that the further out you go the less the reef is doing for you. How those pieces work as one connected system is the subject of the south coast mangrove and reef page.

07 / Zones 10 to 11

The southeast end: Rodgers Beach, San Nicolas and Baby Beach

Past Savaneta the coast opens into wide, shallow bays beneath the old refinery. Rodgers Beach is a small sheltered crescent, sand underfoot and calm water most days. The harbor at San Nicolas beside it belongs to the boats that work it.

Baby Beach is the one that catches people out. It is a broad lagoon you could wade across in much of its area, ringed by a reef arm with a gap in it, and from a beach chair it reads as the most protected water on the island. From a kayak it is a funnel. The wind crosses it with nothing to slow it down, the gap opens straight into the sea, and beyond it the next land downwind is a long way off. Stay well inside the arms and keep the gap beside you rather than downwind.

Where the two corners bite

The northwest tip and this southeast end are where the island stops sheltering you. At both, the water ahead stops being a bay and becomes a route offshore, over a short distance rather than gradually. Know where that turn is before you launch.

Around the corner, Boca Grandi faces the wind squarely and belongs to kitesurfers. It is not sheltered water under a different name.

08 / The other half

Why the windward coast is on this map at all

The north and east side appears on the map above because leaving it off would be dishonest. It is a magnificent shoreline: limestone shelf undercut by the sea, blowholes, natural arches, sand beaches at Andicuri and Wariruri with standing surf on them, and rock the color of ash at Black Stone.

None of it is paddling water. No sheltered launch, no bay to duck into when conditions change, shore break landing on rock rather than sand, and water that sets away from the island. A boat that gets away from you there does not wash up somewhere convenient.

It earns its place anyway, because it explains the wind: everything the trades do to the sheltered side happens after this coast has taken the hit. The sensible itinerary puts the windward coast in the driving half of the day and the leeward coast in the paddling half.

09 / Getting in

Shore access at a glance

What the water does matters little if you cannot get a boat to it. The same coastline, sorted by the entry.

Shelter is described relative to the rest of the sheltered side and to a typical trade wind day, not to any particular morning. Access notes describe the shoreline, not permission, and conditions on the ground change.
Launch area Getting in Shelter once afloat Main thing to watch
1. Arashi Small sand pocket, short carry, rock either side. Low Wind arrives here first and the corner is close.
2. Malmok and Boca Catalina Rock and rubble edges, awkward with a loaded boat. Low Moored boats and swimmers in the same water.
3. Palm Beach Flat sand, walk in from the beach, easiest on the island. Moderate Engines. Motorised traffic is constant here.
4. Eagle Beach and Druif Wide sand, longer carry from most parking. Moderate Drifting down the shore without noticing.
5. Oranjestad waterfront Seawall and berths. Not a launch. Not applicable Commercial shipping. Paddle past, not into.
6. Spanish Lagoon Roadside and bank entries, soft footing, silt underfoot. High Flow through the narrow mouth when water is moving.
7. Pos Chiquito Roadside access, shallow mangrove edge. High Very shallow at the fringe. Read the bottom.
8. Mangel Halto Wooden steps and small sand pockets between mangrove. High Reef on both sides of the channel out.
9. Savaneta Village waterfront, fishing boats using the same water. High Working boats in the channels between the cays.
10. Rodgers Beach and San Nicolas Sand crescent, straightforward, harbor next door. Moderate Industrial shoreline and harbor traffic to the west.
11. Baby Beach Long shallow sand entry, easy to launch, easy to underestimate. Moderate The gap in the reef arm and the wind crossing it.
North and east coast No practical entry. Rock shelf and shore break. None Everything. Walk it instead.
10 / Deciding

Choosing between them

With a morning and a car, go southeast. Spanish Lagoon for stillness and birds, Mangel Halto for reef and mangrove together, Savaneta for the cays. The shelter lasts longer into the day down there, and there is more to look at under the boat.

With no car and a hotel on the strip, launch in front of it and keep the hotel in sight so you know how far you have drifted. If the northwest tip drew you, go at first light and turn back before the corner. At Baby Beach, keep the gap in the arm beside you and never below you.

Whichever you choose, the map is not the deciding factor on the day. The wind is, and it can turn any of these places into a different one between breakfast and lunch.

Paddling the southeast without your own boat?

Zones eight and nine, the reef and mangrove water below Pos Chiquito, are the part of this coastline that anyone runs guided paddling on. If you would rather have the channels read for you than work them out yourself, the routes and everything bookable about them are maintained on the operator's own site.

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